I have a slab from a locust tree that I would like to dry and make into a table. The only method that I have to dry it is by air drying. The slab is 3 foot Dia @ the furtherest point, 7" thick and approximately 9' in circumference.

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Seal it on both sides with log sealer and set it on a couple of narrow stickers at least 18" off the ground. Keep it in the shade in a place where it doesn't get too much air across it but also not in a dingy corner somewhere where it gets zero. Some might suggest you weight it but one that size is gonna do what it want's even if you park a dozer on top of it.

I am not familiar with log sealer. Can I just use latex paint, or is there something specific that I should use? Also, how long should a slab of this type take to dry were it is usable? Thanks for your information. Looking forward to see how this works out.

Latex paint is designed to allow more moisture loss than what you want. Log sealer is specifically designed for the proper rate of moisture flow through the membrane. There's several products available but most of us use Anchorseal. I prefer Anchorseal II and you can call the company that makes it (UC Coatings) at 888-363-2628 and buy it, or they can tell you where you can get some locally. I suggest using ASII not the original formula.

Drying time depends on the environment. Most will tell you to allow one yer for every inch of thickness so in your case it will take 7 years to reach EMC which is the acronym for equilibrium moisture content i.e. the point where no more moisture loss can occur without forcing it out via a kiln.

I do not believe the 1 inch per year rule is very accurate but no matter, it is going to take years before your slab reaches EMC whether that be 5 years or 10 years depends on the species and the environment it is in. You don't have to wait that long before putting it in service necessarily depending on the joinery you use for the frame and the finish you choose but you will need to do a fair amount of research.

Have you ever heard of using polypropylene glycol when drying something of this nature. I have been told that this is a better way then using a wood sealer. They say this replaces the water over time and keeps the wood from cracking.

Joe
When I look at your post "Drying slab locust from a stump" from 6/10 MY picture from my post "40 inch diameter log in solar kiln" from 6/15 appears. Is this happening just on my computer or was there an unintended cross referencing. I don't think I posted this on your site. I don't mind it being there but appologize if this was caused by something I did. In any case good luck with your project. I am interested in your success as our problems are similar in drying large pieces of wood.

Joe - if the image with your post is incorrect, please send me the correct image and I will add it here for you. Send to webmaster@woodweb.com.

Thanks -