Refrigerator Cabinet Depth
High-end fridges may need cabinet depths that stick out past the rest of the cabinet faces. Here's advice on making things blend. January 26, 2009
Question
I was reading the specs on Subzero's Integrated Refrigeration (Mdl #s 700TCI-RH & 700BR). I noticed that these appliances require a full 24" installation depth and that any added panel thickness will protrude beyond the face of adjacent standard depth cabinets.
This complicates flush beaded inset jobs by making the overall cabinet depth including the 3/4" thick faces needing to be about 24.875" in order to have the refrigerated drawers applied door panels be flush with neighboring cabinets. It’s not a big deal as far as this job’s sheet good yield goes but it will throw a curve at the granite guys. Has anyone run into this?
Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor D:
I usually just make the fridge cabinet deeper. The deeper the better - 25-26" and your countertop can die into the deeper cabinet and not protrude. If it's the under-counter models they work well in a large island where the extra depth can be easily achieved with no noticeable differences.
From the original questioner:
Yeah it’s the under-counter and not an island.
From contributor D:
We make all inset cabinets 13", 25" and 26.5" deep (floor to ceiling).
From contributor P:
We would put a 3/4" batten along the wall and use standard cab depth. If the granite folks can't handle the additional depth the customer needs another top supplier.
From contributor A:
Just make the fridge cabinet 1 1/2" deeper. This will give the countertop overhang (typ 1") enough room to land. It'll give you 3/4" space behind the fridge to leave a couple of cross braces to hold the box together. You will likewise have 3/4" in front of the fridge for your applied panel. The other subzero fridges they market as cabinet depth are actually overlay.
From contributor C:
We also have found the best solution to be fluted or A & C columns as this gives ourselves a two inch buildout advantage. It makes it a lot easier with tubing and electric, as well as butting the top at standard depth into the sides.
From contributor C:
If the wall is modern or flush, and truly flush inset in one plane throughout then yes you do need to make everything deeper to accommodate the deeper refrigerator. It also helps on wall ovens and cooktops having that 26" depth. But yes it does cost more.
