I will be using general finishes poly tinted to a dark greyish color called wrought iron. Customer wants it in gloss. gloss is hard to do off the gun. I am anticipating having to do a mild rub out for defects. Any tips thoughts or suggestions.?
From contributor ni
cure for at least a week and make a fairly good size sample board to practice on.
From contributor Ro
I hope it's a Guitar!
From contributor jo
nope just a wet bar in a game room. I doesnt have to be a dead nuts show car finish just gloss and free from noticeable defect. Im hoping that i can get it to cure hard enough quicker than a week but Im not holding my breath. I wonder if adding accelerator and or crosslinker would speed things up some. Anybody using abralon for this who might have a grit schedule for me?
From contributor Ba
Johnathan you might want to think about topping the gray with multiple coats of clear gloss poly. That would be my approach. It'll add depth to the look and may be easier to rub out being that the tinted poly will take longer to cure with so much pigment in the finish (Nicks advice about a week cure is money). You want a really hard surface when you rub out. Softer surfaces are easy to put deep scratches in which can be hard/impossible to get out.
good luck
From contributor Ad
I once buffed 5 coats of Aquabarnice after 2 days. It was rock hard. That is the MLC post cat wb.
From contributor Da
We have done this with black. Yes you do have to do a few coats of the clear on top of the black as stated. Gloss would be good. Then once the coats have all dried for about a week you can polich. First you have to knock off the nibs and ripples with a 2000 grit 3M waterproof paper and a rubber autobody block. Nest you have to get polisher with a 3M grey foam pad and use either the 3M #2 rubbing compound for a softer finish or the #3 3M Finnesse compond for a high gloss. You MUST be careful not to sand through the individual layers of finish or you will get what is called contouring and you will see this in the final finish. The problem with the WB is that one coat does not burn into the previos coat. This is why Polyester is used most of the time or at least a catalyzed WB polyurethane.
From contributor jo
Im trying to stay with a pigmented top coat for the reasons that you don't have to be quite as clean and I don't want to deal with many many coats of clear and witness lines that can occur. If you spray the poly green coat over green coat you will get some burn in. Im pretty sure I can get it pretty close off the gun, but I do know there will be occasional imperfections Thus the mild rub out.
From contributor Da
I hope this video will help answer your question.
From contributor Da
Jonathen I have never polished the pigmented so I cant be confident of a good answer on that. I know you should be able to polish it out and get a nice finish, just not sure how glossy. I might give that a try as I have some stuff I had done a while ago as colour samples.
From contributor ni
Good video Daniel...experienced craftswomen simply explaining how to get a professional result.
Jonathan, let us know how you went about it when you're done.
