Hinge and Slider Hardware for Rollout Shelves in Frameless Cabinetry
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It's a little tricky to install slide-out shelving so that the shelves clear the doors in a frameless cabinet. Here's a discussion. August 31, 2010
Question
For those of you who do frameless boxes, how do you handle the hinge/rollout condition in a base cabinet? For example, we use Blum Tandem slides, and on the hinge side we use a plastic spacer made specifically for the Blum Tandem to clear the hinge. In addition, we raise the hinge location above the rollout to be able to quickly connect/disconnect/adjust the hinge.
This is a condition that arises for anyone who uses rollout shelves. How are the rest of you handling this? Do you use spacers? Do you elevate the hinge? Do you use a zero protrusion hinge?
Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor J:
I do it exactly as you described. In fact, as standard procedure I bore all base cabinet doors the same way, sinks included. I use a 1" thick spacer by Mepla and a standard 120 degree hinge. This hinge stays adjusted better than a 165. If there's a better way, I haven't thought of it.
From contributor D:
I do it the same way.
From contributor N:
I use the Tenn Tex Quick Tray system.
From contributor R:
I make spacers from 3" x 22" edgebanded matching material.
From the original questioner:
I am slightly bothered by the fact that in order to get the rollout as low as possible in the cabinet, we have to cut the bottom off of the Tandem spacer. For those using Tandem spacers, do you sit the spacer against the floor of the cabinet, which in turn raises the rollout about an inch off the bottom, or do you cut it like I do?
From contributor I:
For the bottom Tandem, I turn the plastic space sideways and just add an extra wood screw instead of a euro screw in a system hole.
From contributor E:
Elevated zero protrusion with a plastic bumper on the drawer front. It justifies the system holes.
From contributor P:
I do mine from edgebanded material, 74mm x 22", then through-linebore them (first hole back 37mm from face). Slide mounts with system screws, then the assembly attaches into the cabinet with a couple of 1 1/2" screws through unused system holes in the slide. Quick and easy.
From contributor C:
Better yet, talk 'em into drawers. Seems like opening a door and then a drawer (tray) is more effort to the user, and more cost to user and maker. Unless it is set in stone and specified, I try to talk them into a drawer. I have been building drawers in my sink cabs (the bottom, so it clears plumbing) for a few years now. Seems like a good place for T.P.
From contributor M:
We use 170* hinges. We bore the hinge plate holes 142.5 and 174.5mm from the bottom edge. All base cabinets get bored this way to avoid confusion. All base doors get bored accordingly. It only took one question from a client asking why there was such a wasted space below the rollout, as we were using the spacers over the bottom hinge and boring the traditional 110/142mm from the bottom. I told him that we were working in "system" and I felt really dumb realizing he did not give a rat's ass about my system. I determined I would not have to answer that question again and went to the 170* hinges. Of course, there has to be space on the right/left for the door to open enough for the rollout to clear.
The result is that we gained 2" in the width of the rollout and by securing the slide directly to the side of the cabinet, it gives the rollout much better support. I also feel much better by providing the extra value. Besides, those white plastic deals were a pain to install.
From the original questioner:
A year or so ago I had somebody write a UCS in Cabinetvision that drilled for the Tandem spacers on the hinge side of a rollout shelf. After that, installing the spacers was fast and easy. What I didn't realize until just after I made this post was that we could adjust the holes just slightly, and now the slide and spacer can sit on the floor of the cabinet just fine without modification. Our problem is solved.
From contributor U:
I used to move the hinge above the ROS, but past customers would want to add a ROS in a cabinet that had been a shelf box. Now what? I give a larger rat's ass about my system than most customers, so I have 2" under my bottom roll out and tell them that is where those large platters go that no one knows where to put. I keep my hinges on system no matter what hardware is selected.
From contributor M:
"I used to move the hinge above the ROS, but past customers would want to add a ROS in a cabinet that had been a shelf box. Now what?"
For us, that is easy. All base cabinets get bored the same, to accept either shelves or rollout shelves, no difference. This has the advantage of being able to move the rollout up or down along the adjustable shelf holes. We use a PTP, so that makes it simple. My business philosophy has always been to go out of my way to provide what the clients want. If the system doesn't allow it, I change the system to accommodate. This is a perfect example in which I would not subjugate the perceived value of my product for my convenience. My systems work for me, not the other way around.
Anyway, the beauty of being an owner is being able to run our businesses anyway we want to. Did I mention I am passionate about customer service? Sometimes it works to my detriment. So be it. So far, we have missed the worst economic downturn of our lifetimes or it has missed us (thank God). I have no intention of changing my business philosophy anytime soon. To each his own.
From contributor W:
I don't do frameless, but on my face frame cabs I bore the hinge cup 4" up from the door bottom rather than my standard 2.5" (which lets me put the shelf all the way down), and then I install a horizontal solid wood rail on the hinge side for the hardware to attach to. The 3/4" horizontal rail offsets the shelf to keep any items on the shelf from running into the hinge on the way out.
From contributor Q:
1" adjustable plastic pilasters from Hafele. Mount behind the hinge. Done.
