Bought bander and just got wired up and it hangs around pre operating temperatures and wont go up to operating temp. What am I doing wrong ??? Looked in manual and done all it says to do on cold start up but it won't heat up past 145 degrees ( the heat it reverts to after it hasnt been ran in 5 minutes ) when I push the "F" button on thermogenic it shows 200 degrees , but wont climb over 150 , then it drops to 145 area. I switched the preheat and work button to both sides but it still only gets to 145 degree area
1) I turn on main control unit and thermogenics come on and only heats to 145 degrees.
2) the Start up button will not come on . I have air , all switches are to off position and all emergency buttons are pulled out.
3) conveyer belt is in off position.
4) what am I doing wrong ? I NEED TO GET THIS UP AND RUNNING.
From contributor ed
Assuming all the scmi techs are off today.
Google your issue. I typed in " scmi bander setting glue temp." 575,000 responses.
Throw in your model number it will narrow the list done.
Good luck!
From contributor Ji
Assuming all three power leads are hot.
Have you powered the drag chain? Is it traveling the right direction?
Have you tested voltage at the heater(s) and verified all are if fact heating?
Are any of the relays open or tripped? Fuses checked for continuity?
From contributor Do
all breakers have been checked,havent tested individual heaters , because it heats to preheat temperature. havent been able to turn chain feed on because it wont reach operating temp. Checked electrical input and its correct. I will just wait and call in a tech. , would be wise thing anyways. Damn pop up ads on here suck !
From contributor Ji
I have a HolzHer. Mine doesn't heat up to operating temp (200c)unless the drag chain is operating.
If the drag chain times out (no panel detected for x amount of time) the thermostat reverts to standby heat (approx 75c) until the drag chain is restarted.
The SCMI may be different.
From contributor Je
I run a HolzHer and it works like Jim's, chain has to be moving to get to temp. Don't have any advise for the SCM though?
good luck,
JeffD
From contributor Bo
JH and JeffD. I posted earlier about a problem I am having with my Holzer bander. Do either of you have a suggestion to fix the problem?
From contributor La
We have an SCM/IDM58 bander. It will come to operating temperature w/o the chain running. The temperature controllers have a multitude of internal settings.
Use the manual to make sure they are all set correctly. You also may need to have 6 bar (90#s) of air to the machine. Using your infrared temperature sensor check to be sure all heaters are operating. Are your settings in the PLC correct? Check the manual.
From contributor Do
Have over 6 bars of air , manual dont say hardly nothing about the thermogenics . What do you mean PLC settings ? Dont have infrared tester , but i figure since it stays at 145 degrees and start switch wont activate , its operator error. Manual has troubleshooting its a joke ! Suggestions ?
From contributor La
"What do you mean PLC settings ? Dont have infrared tester , but i figure since it stays at 145 degrees and start switch wont activate , its operator error." Sorry about the reference to the PLC. Programmable Logic Controller. Also sometimes referred to as a computer. It contains the variables that you can set. Timings, relationship of temperature to allowing the chain to start etc. Maybe your machine doesn't have PLC control. An Infrared thermometer costs less than $100 and allows you to get a fairly accurate temperature reading w/o touching the target. You can tell if/when the heating elements are on, if one has failed it will show as a cool area. You can tell what the application roll temperature is. You can also get readings on motors when they start to fail, When bearings are running too hot and may be out of lube or even over lubed. It is a great diagnostic tool. When you get a new piece of equipment record bearing and motor temperatures to use as a base line. In the future you can tell when something is going out of spec and repair it before it costs a complete new unit. Bearings are cheap compared to motors!
It will pay you to learn to trouble shoot your equipment. If you have the electrical & pneumatic diagrams it will allow you to trace the expected operations in a systematic way. A multimeter will cost less than $100 for one that is good enough. Learn to use it safely and it will save you much more than that. Be smart about working inside of a control cabinet when the power is on. If you don't know don't touch it. The control system is likely 24 volt but the motors will be running on 3 phase @ 380 volts, LETHAL!
From contributor Do
It doesnt have PLC , just has the 2 thermogenic units . Good advise on the heat laser tool ! Good for checking house for leaks as well :) .
From contributor Sc
Is the bander new or used? If it is used was the temperature reaching 200 before you bought it? Could be your glue pot is shot and will need to be replaced. If it worked before you bought it it is probably your electrical, switch 2 of the wires if it is 3 phase, if that does not work check all your voltages like mentioned. Just because your building says it is 208 volt or 220 volt or higher it may not be. Most heating items that don't heat properly end up being an electrical problem. Good luck.
From contributor La
No, you glue pot does not need to be replaced. This problem sounds more like a temperature controller issue. If you have confirmed that all settings are correct there are these things to check in this order. Confirm that all heaters come on when the machine is started. Use your infrared temperature device. Check that the connector between the heaters wires and the control cabinet is fully seated (unlikely a problem but covering bases.) There are probably two displays on the temperature controller. One is the set point and the other is the current temp. After starting the machine but before it has the timeout function that reverts it to 145 does the set point show 195+-. If not the likely suspect is the temperature controller. If you are familiar with these things you can buy a new one from Automationdirect.com for about $120 or you can order one from the OEM. If you are not electrically adept, stop here. When the control cabinet is open and the power is on, there are very dangerous voltages present. Enough to kill you!
Next, if the set point was correct, check the relays in the control cabinet. You will need a multi-meter. Use the wiring diagram to find which relay(s) should close when the controller operates. My suspicion is that the relay(s) are OK because normally the same relay is used for both set points and it is just the controller that turns them on and off to regulate the temperature. Relays are simple and cheap. A magnetic coil that normally operates on 24V (on most woodworking equipment) and the set of contacts that send the higher power to the device being operated. Should it turn out to be the relay take the information off of it and put it in Google. They are sold by many of the industrial supply houses.
These sorts of problems are easily figured out by following the source of the power through all the things in-between to the non-functioning device. Learn to read the wiring diagrams. You can find all the symbols used on-line. Europeans use a bit different set that in the US. Make a copy of the wiring diagram so you can mark it up as you go. The only catch is tracking the multiple relay interconnects that may operate a safety system or be controlled by the auxiliary contacts on a motor control. But even these are not all that hard to ultimately understand. Good luck.
From contributor Je
Hi Doni, I see the original post is from December. How'd you make out?
I can't speak for your model, but we have an SCMI Basis 2 model. Assuming that your 3-Phase legs landed properly (L1>L1, L2>L2, L3>L3). Check the temp setting as noted above. When you depress the Green start button (with other switches to off), it should lock on without being fully up to temp - but it'll be silent until operating temp reached. With drivbelt 'On', it should engage at around 150-deg. I'd definitely use multimeter carefully check voltages using schematic. If you troubleshoot it to needing to replace the temperature controller, do look around as I have found that OEM parts from SCM are quite $$$. I've found same parts, with a little research for much less - even bringing in direct from Italy.
