Hello All,
Been away from the forum for a few months.
I have two 3120xp’s that I use to rip logs. Most everyone has used an Alaska saw mill. I have taken it to the next level. For years I have been thinking about ripping large logs an easier way. I got bored a earlier this year, so I built this slabbing attachment to use on my both my mills, (stationary and portable). The power feed on the mill works well, now that I have figured out how to cut without burning the clutch up on the saw. I too years ago, bought ripping chains from Bailey’s. Then I just bought 100’ rolls of chain and made my own. I have come to realize it is a very important to make up a ripping chain correctly. I split 6 big logs with this set up and love it. Cuts straight and perfect. My next thing is to get a 72” bar since I saw a show on TV that used a 13 foot bar on a 3120xp.
Be save everyone!

AJ Mearns
AJ's Custom Portable Saw Milling & Wood Turning
425-501-0020
19304 Filbert Rd
Bothell, Wa 98012

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Looks like a great idea you have came up with.

I like that AJ simple and effective. I've had a similar idea but using my mill's power plant vs a chainsaw. I'll probably never do it but if I do the only design challenge I have is how to transfer power from the idler wheel to the gearbox. With a belt of course but what I mean is, I need to lengthen the shaft of the idler wheel to get a pulley on it so the only thing I can see is to weld either a threaded female coupler to the shaft so I can attach/remove the pulley. Better still would be a shaft with a keyway because unscrewing the shaft from the threaded coupler could prove difficult after all the torque applied against it during milling.

Of course I would have to cut a hole in the wheel cover where the welded shaft could be accommodated when the slabber is not in use. And I'd have to design the extension shaft to allow the idler wheel to be replaced if ever needed, or just cut the extension off and weld back on. The extension shaft would obviously have to be perfectly perpendicular to the wheel and perfectly straight along the the axis of the wheel shaft also.

Maybe a better solution would be to cut a removable panel in the side of the idler wheel housing and just slip on a longer belt to reach down to the gearbox pulley - I like that it's much simpler.

Just thinking out loud here. On second thought your simpler setup is probably a better idea, although I must say it does appear to be a little too lightweight for my liking and I can't tell from the pictures how you're dealing with the racking forces applied to the frame. What is preventing that I cannot tell from the pics?

There was many hours spent in engineering and trial and error. Does anyone remember the show "Junkyards Wars", the simplest design always won. This frame work takes less than 5 minutes to install and another couple of minutes to install the chainsaw. Yes there is twist in the frame when cutting but this was factored into the design of the framework when built. It is not fast, and my 3120xp will run 19 minutes on a full tank of fuel. I do not use gasoline in the chainsaw, I use 100LL Avgas. Never have to worry about fuel going bad in the saw or in the mix that might sit for months before being used. Also, there is more Btu’s in Avgas so there is more power and it burns cooler in the saw so the saw runs longer than it would with unleaded pump gas.
This design would NEVER work on a cantilever mill. Would you cut, with your mill, hanging on to the cantilever section while cutting a log on your bed? Of course you wouldn't. That is way this would never work on a cantilevered mill head designed. The whole assembly weighs about 200lbs. With the center of gravity so far out, I can lift my stationary mill head off the far side of the frame rails if I choose to. That is the reason why it is built as light as possible. I hope this answers more of the questions that have come up.
Be safe everyone and have a safe Christmas!
AJ Mearns
AJ's Custom Portable Saw Milling & Wood Turning
425-501-0020
19304 Filbert Rd
Bothell, Wa 98012

Junkyard Wars... loved the show, even sent in a demo video to try to get on it. Nice adaptation to a band saw mill. Should provide a good, solid track, and easy way to set the blade height.

Thanks for the more details.

Of course it would work with a cantilever mill. You just have to approach it a little differently. I think it would even work off to the side with what I see in my mind's eye. But I would build it to ride in front of the mill head and the bar and chains a well below the bottom of the wheels in order not to be limited to the width of the mill. Lots of simple ways to do it on a cantilever. Nothing a 4 poster can do that a cantilever can't, but I'm not going down the well-worn road.

Wish we had avgas anywhere near me I used to run it also until our local fuel wholesaler stopped carrying it. Merry Christmas to all y'all.